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Luca Maffei, Perfumer of Atelier Fragranze Milano

Updated: Apr 28

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From Ancient Rituals to Modern Creations: The Journey of a Young Master Perfumer


Maitre parfumeur, creator, perfumer, aromatherapist; there are many names for someone who is a 'Nose' by profession. This is a fascinating activity, which is not taken for granted, but which is as old as it gets; consider that over 4000 years ago, the ancient Egyptians created perfumes to bridge the sidereal distance between earth and sky, between men and the Gods.


A chat with Luca Maffei, 36 years old, son of art, one of the youngest noses of excellence, allowed us to better penetrate an extremely interesting and bewitching world.


Luca Maffei

Since childhood he has been fascinated by the world of perfumery, which even as a child saw him immersed in his father's bottles of essences; Luca explains how he never imagined he could become a young nose, although he has always wanted to work in the sector.

Therefore, "conscious happiness" transpires in Luca's eyes; he says that he is happy with the recognition he has received over the years, but at the same time, he confirms that he is aware that creative maturity will come in the future, with experience.

Although he is a child of art, Luca tells us that the path to becoming a nose follows a common one. A degree in chemistry, attendance at a public school in the sector, either in Italy or France, which can give general training in perfumery, and then access to the final step. Luca defines the last step as a romantic one, as the student has to find a mentor (an already trained nose) who is willing to pass on the creative technique.


The perfumery sector

The perfumery sector is a niche sector, with many enthusiasts but also many young people who want to be part of it. Although it may seem like a small sector, Luca reveals that it is highly developed; think of the creation of detergents, cleansers or room scents... everyone has a nose.

Luca Maffei does not deny that the sector is extremely competitive both between big brands and within the same company; but perhaps it is precisely the fact that, as in any sector where creativity plays a fundamental role, high competition is a common element.

Despite the high level of competition and the Covid-19 pandemic situation, however, perfumery is a positive growth sector, indicating that in a sense people have rediscovered the sense of smell.

But with the rediscovery of the sense of smell, what makes consumers choose a niche perfume over a perfume created by a well-known brand (at the same cost)? Luca says that much of the consumer's choice is based on whether or not they are willing to take risky paths. Undoubtedly, the big brand has more communication, distribution and management capabilities for the creation of a given fragrance. Arrangements that reassure the customer. On the other hand, the niche brand, which has less image, tends to invest more in research into particular ingredients and has more courage to take risks.


Perfume creation

Perfume creation is a creative process that requires time, attention and precision. The beating heart of fragrance creation is the laboratory, which Luca Maffei defines as "the organ of the perfumer". And it is in the laboratory that the formula, which can contain from a minimum of 35 to a maximum of 90 raw materials, is written from the customer's request. Then each chosen ingredient is weighed and put into alcohol. Initially, the formula created is felt on a card to smell only the fragrance, and only later, if the person who created it likes it, is it put on by several people, so as to note how it can potentially change the various olfactory nuances. The final step is to present it to the customer who can either approve or modify it.

Importantly, the fragrance houses or noses usually work in challenge, which means that several houses are asked to create a particular fragrance. This means, Luca Maffei explains, that sometimes they work on projects which are not successful; but this is, at the same time, a stimulus for continuous improvement but also proof of how different noses interpret the same olfactory message differently.


Curiosities

When asked which fragrance most closely relates to the concept of luxury between the scent of rose, or incense and leather, most think that the concept of luxury relates much more to the scent of incense and leather than to that of rose.

Although from a raw material value point of view, the rose is one of the most expensive ingredients*; it is noticeable that the consumer is influenced by the olfactory form of the ingredients and therefore connects the concept of luxury with a sacred ingredient such as incense; whereas a more delicate and transparent note such as the rose may give less of this feeling.

In addition to the rose, a less obvious and more sought-after essence stands out among the most expensive ingredients: Florentine Iris Absolute. This one only grows in a certain geographical area, many homes desire it and consequently the perceived value is very high. Absolute is an extremely particular flower, its perfume comes from the roots of the flower (rhizomes), so to create the essence the roots are extracted, dried for at least 4 years, and only then is the essence extracted.

Another special and sought-after ingredient is the famous ambergris. A very rare essence, it is derived from the stones of animals such as whales and sperm whales. Specifically, ambergris is extracted from huge stones that float for years in the sea until they settle on beaches and are collected to make infusions and tinctures for use in perfumes. Needless to say, this little-used ingredient has very saline, marine and iodized olfactory characteristics.


To conclude, we couldn't help but ask Luca Maffei the fateful question: "Where do you wear perfume?". A million-dollar question, he replies, smiling. It is said that it should be put on the hottest spots, containing alcohol, and therefore on the wrists and behind the neck. But personally, Luca Maffei confesses that he usually wears it on the collar of his shirt or T-shirt, so that he finds it pleasantly present whenever he moves his head.



It is inevitable, therefore, that in the course of time the perfumer's skill has been associated with categories such as religion for the ancients, poetry, magic, science; but above all with creativity and Luca Maffei is an example of this. The creation of perfumes is a technique but also a philosophy.


*To obtain one litre of rose essential oil, about 4 tonnes of rose petals are needed (14,000 euros/kg).









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